Dragon's Hobbies

here is a little a tech biggie, don't know if i could use these components.

ive been building hobby grade cars for about 18 years and race rc every friday night so i think i can help you out. first off the lipo batteries are great but require a lipo charger, a good lipo charger can be had for aroud 40 bucks. if you run lipos you will need to have a speed control with a lipo cut off, if you dont have a lipo cut off it very easy to ruin your lipo packs. once you drain a 7.4v lipo past 6.6v its junk and is totally unsafe to charge.

the green motor you have is a brushless motor and requires a brushless speed control. the other electronics you showed a brushed and would work just fine, keep in mind that brushed esc doesnt have a lipo cut off. if you go to hobbyking or hobbypartz you can find a cheap esc that will run that brushless motor and have a lipo cut off in it.

i did a hooby grade conversion on my eliminator and used an axial ae1 speed control in it. it was the only esc i could find that would allow me to run the stock tyco battery packs. i used the axial esc with the stock tyco motor and it was a huge difference, the truck will wheel stand in high gear from a dead stop. if you need more info just ask.

hmm, could you point me to links of a lipo charger, and a lipo speed control

heres a link to the charger i have and its awesome. it will charge lipos and it will charge tyco packs
http://www.hobbypartz.com/skychb6chdup.html

heres a like to an esc that ive heard some good thing about
http://www.hobbypartz.com/ezrun-18a-v2-esc-for-rc-car.html

what about a reciever and remote? i thought maybe this????...

http://www.hobbypartz.com/fs-g2-24ghz-radio.html

the fly sky is supposed to be good but ive never used it myself, but for the price you cant beat it.

i like that charger wish it wasn't out of stock.

speed control seems like a good price.

fly sky has good reviews wish it was in stock.

so with all these is should complete my car???

you will need a servo for the steering but other than that you should be good to go.

isn't this cord hanging out from the servo?
when i turn the front wheels it makes that noise and stay locked which ever direction i push them

ok yea thats the servo, didnt notice the wire. you should be good to go.

now if only everything was in stock!!  oldss you are my new best friend  ;D i think i'll buy you harley truck! haha you got me in a great mood

how many 49mhz eliminators you have?

one. i had two parts ones, i made an eliminator traxx out of one.

how do i know what speed control to use, i see on hobbyking.com they are split into categories of <20 amp, 20-39 amp, and so on.

what tells me which to use?

the brushless motor you have is 1/18 scale and that esc says its for 1/18th scale so it should work fine.

haha okay, how do you know that is a 1/18th motor?

well since the car is 1/12 scale i know its not a full size 540 motor so to next size down is 1/18 scale 380 motor.

you are amazing! how fast you think it will go?

depends on the kv rating on the motor, take the motor out and see if it has any markings on it.

heres the same charger

http://www.hobbypartz.com/thac6smbachw.html

this controller is a little more but its a nicer model

http://www.hobbypartz.com/79p-gt3b-carradio-lcd.html

i got the other remote, and charger on hobbyking.com

Cool, did you figure out what kv the motor is?

this is what the motor says
      TACON
      96M02
2303-5200KV

Ok I will do some looking around for the trans ratio for that and try to figure out a rough guess for top speed.

what does kv stand for?

Kv is a rating for rpm per volt so for example if your motor has a 4000kv rating you take 4000x the amount of volts your putting into it and that's how many rpm the motor will spin with no load on it.

your motor has a 5200kv rating and your lipos will top out at 8.4 volt so your looking at around 43680rpm and after some rough math your looking at around 40 mph give or take depending on gearing, that thing should be a handful to drive.

wow, what are you using to convert rpm to mph? and these battery packs are rated at 7.4v 1800mah

The 7.4 lipo will actually be 8.4v when fully charged, as far as converting rpm to mph it not that simple. You have to know transmission gear ratio, tire height, motor rpm and from there you just have to know how to convert it all to mph. It also helps that I have a friend with the same car with a little bigger system in it that tops out at 55.

okay, i was surprised how quick those numbers came out, but that makes sense

The mini cars are fun but getting any real speed out of them is tough because they get out of control real easy, all it takes is a tiny pebble on the road and it will get out of control. I have an rc18t with a 9000kv brushless in it that would probably do 75 or 80 but at 40mph it gets loose and I have to back off the throttle. The rc18t is 4wd and even it has a hard time getting traction, if I go full throttle from a dead stop it will just start spinning all 4 wheels and doing donuts then the tires go flying off the rims.

If you really want to have a good time with rc try to find an indoor carpet track near you, I bet they will have a beginner class on race night that you can run the tamtech in. We race carpet off road at my local track and its awesome, I couldn't imagine what id do on friday nights if I couldn't race. Most guys at any track are very helpful to new guys and will be able to give you a hand, not to say you wont find a couple guys that take it way to serious and act like assholes.

i highly doubt there is an indoor track anywhere near me, sadly

were you looking for a good running 49mhz eliminator or a body? cause i have bodies.

id like a whole truck so i have a pair but it will have to wait till after the holidays.

got ya, i have the pair and another fixer upper 27mhz.

i dont care what the mhz of the chassis is as long as it has the body is 49mhz.

i might be able to throw something together for you then. so after Christmas will give me time to fix it up. i hate have the wrong frequency to color scheme haha

it just has to look good on the shelf.

haha well i could send you a hollow one! haha, i have the chassis and some nice chrome rims  ;D

cool, post some pics if you can

here are some super quick mock ups. now for the roll cage lights i'd need to find about 3 more cause i want to put some on the other good eliminator i have cause it has two so does this one and i have a single one.

looks good, whats the price gonna be?

depends, this actually has a working board and servo, one front shock tower is broken. once its all together i'll let you know. i wanna make it look pretty nice. just depends, on the parts i use. i have other that get first dibbs, on the parts.

ok, hopefully after the holidays i will have some more cash to spend.

no rush, its not going anywhere hopefully i can find more wheels, cause i only have slicks and those you saw that are nice., well i might have more somewhere haha

actually if you want the electronics out of it thats fine, i wouldnt mind modding another one. i would just need the motor.

the gear box is stripped, i thought you probably would but that is why its a parts one. :-[

that sucks.

yes it does. have a rear that i plan to but on a baja bandit. the rear that is on the baja now is stripped in low i could put it on the eliminator, if you'd want.

yea that would work as long as its cheap lol. ;D

well it will be less than a working one  ;). i'd give it to you if you'd do this outlaw mod i want to do for my little brother haha  ;D

sounds good, for me the best part of rc is building them

alright got the speed control, tell me what these are

is that a fuse of some sort or resister?


and what is the red button i see the back is an on off switch

The silver thing is a capacitor and the button on the switch should be for setup, read the instructions and it should tell you how to hook it up and do the setup..

Did you get it figure out?

well i'm waiting for the receiver and remote. but the red button was a "set" button. and it doesn't have the right battery plug on it

got the reciever, remote, and charger, but stupid me, i got the European version of the charger with the wrong cord! so now i need a new cord and need to get the right end to put on the speed control

I run deans ends on all my stuff and the work great, to bad about the charger.

the charger is identical, just a eurpean plug.

what is a dean plug?

its the best high current battery connector on the market, heres a like

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKX39&P=ML

yeah i got to put the male end on the esc

yep thats correct, the charger should come with a wire with deans on it

yeah it does, just wish i wouldn't have to change the esc plug, now i got to get a different cord for the charger and the dean plug.

waiting sucks.

why is that the best plug? just curious

Most plug create resistence in the connection between the battery and the esc, deans plugs have a lower resistence than the wire does so it doesn't effect the flow of power from the battery to the esc. The battery plugs on a tyco are known as tamiya plugs and they are the worst, they rob all sorts of power and are being phased out in faver of lower resistence plugs.

okay cool, i ordered 10 pairs. put the one on the speed control and one on the other battery. oddly enough it came with two batteries one with a dean plug the other with a banana plug.

got the adapter for the charger charger the battery, didn't take long but the battery was already at 3.7v a cell. do lipo's hold there charge really well? cause that battery has been sitting in a box for awhile!

lipos while hold a charge forever, you could charge it today and 2 years from now it will still be fully charged.

sweet! so they don't go bad with age like the nihm and nicd

not really as long as you treat them right, like i said just make sure you dont drain them past 3.3v per cell or youll ruin them.

doen't the speed control you pointed me to have a cut off? or do i need to get one of those too?

From what I read on the website I believe it does put I would read thru the instructions to make sure, if not you can buy an buzzer that hooks to the balance plug that will buzz when the voltage gets low.

PROTECTION FUNCTIONS:
1. Low voltage cut off protection: if the voltage of a lithium pack is lower than the threshold for 2 seconds the esc will cut off output power. Please note the esc cannot be restarted if the voltage of each cell is lower than 3.5v.

i believe that is the cut off :)

Yep, some esc have the ability to turn it off to use nimh packs so just make sure its on and have blast.

ahh that is that switch, it came with a tamiya plug, well it was a smaller version but that makes sense why i way on there now.

so i put a deans plug on, binded the remote and receiver. which it said to turn it all off then but the receivers light started blinking again, and i have no steering or throttle. what did i do wrong?

sounds like it didnt bind

or something isnt plugged in correctly

i'll take some pictures or make a video to let you see.

welcome to the world of hobby grade rc cars. I didn't read all of the posts so this may have been mesioned but if your esc won't run and is blinking you may have to program the esc, or some esc's blink if your throttle trim is not in neutral to prevent runaways but usually that will give you steering still. sounds like you may need to program your esc. usually consists of turn on esc with a fully charged battery while not connected to motor, push buttom, put throttle on controller to full forward push button, put throttle reverse full, push putton, put throttle in neutral push button and usually then you're finished...

i got it to work but it sounds like i stripped the gears.  >:(

What's it doing exactly? I would start by checking the gear mesh, you don't want it to tight or to loose. When looking at the gears you should be able to hold the big gear and try to turn the little gear, it should have just a little bit of slop. If that checks out good the I would pull the trans out and take it apart to see what condition those gears are in, if there good I would still grease them while you have it apart I use mag1 hi temp wheel bearing grease and it works great. If the gears are all good it could be a number of things causeing it but without holding it in my hands its hard to diagnose what the problem may be. Did you buy that car new or used?

loose ball bearing diffs can sound like stripped gears sometimes too allthough i have stripped allot of gears on tamiya cars. slipper clutches are our friends.

are your batts fully charged and the voltage protection turn'd on. im asking coz if the brushless motor isnt getting enough power it will tend to start coging under load which could act like a car/truck with a striped gear. you will hear a clicking noise and the car will splutter and not run smooth.

it was running fine then bam, just like a bandit gunned into forward, you here spinning but its hardly going anywhere.

yea sounds like a striped gear. but it my be the grub screw on the pinnion gear has come undone and not catching causing the motor to spin inside the pinnion. try that first and also make sure the the motor mount srews havent sliped as that would cause the pinnion and the spur gear to not mesh up and strip the spur gear.